The chemistry of fragrances : from perfumer to consumer / edited by Charles Sell.

Previous edition: compiled by David Pybus and Charles Sell. 1999.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

Glossary
1. The human relationship with fragrance / Linda Harman
2. The history of aroma chemistry and perfume / David H. Pybus
2.1. Early use of fragrance
2.2. The age of chivalry
2.3. The age of alchemy
2.4. The age of discovery
2.5. The age of revolution
2.6. The age of empire (nineteenth century)
2.6.1. Technique
2.6.2. Structured perfumes, and use of synthetics
2.6.3. Industrialisation and 'massification'
2.7. The age of fashion (twentieth century)
3. Perfumery materials of natural origin / Charles Sell
3.1. Perfumes and odours in nature
3.1.1. Introduction
3.1.2. Biosynthesis
3.2. Extraction of natural perfume ingredients
3.2.1. Expression
3.2.2. Distillation
3.2.3. Solvent extraction
3.3. Adulteration of natural perfume ingredients
3.4. From natural to synthetic
References. 4. Ingredients for the modern perfumery industry / Charles Sell
4.1. Economic factors affecting perfume ingredient production
4.2. Perfume ingredients derived from terpenoids
4.2.1. Introduction
4.2.2. Five key terpenoids
4.2.3. Feedstocks
4.2.4. Pinene pyrolysis
4.2.5. Pinane pyrolysis
4.2.6. The Carroll reaction
4.2.7. The Claisen rearrangement
4.2.8. Prenyl chloride
4.2.9. The Ene reaction
4.2.10. Elegance, a four-step process
4.2.11. Hemiterpenoids
4.2.12. Acyclic monoterpenoids
4.2.13. Cyclic monoterpenes
4.2.14. Menthol
4.2.15. Bicyclic monoterpenoids
4.2.16. Sesquiterpenoids
4.2.17. Cedarwood
4.2.18. Sandalwood
4.2.19. Diterpenoids
4.2.20. Ambergris
4.2.21. Ionones and related compounds
4.3. Musks
4.4. Perfume ingredients derived from benzene
4.5. Perfume ingredients derived from toluene
4.6. Perfume ingredients derived from phenol
4.7. Perfume ingredients derived from naphthalene
4.8. Perfume ingredients derived from aliphatic materials
4.9. Perfume ingredients derived from cyclopentanone
4.10. Perfume ingredients derived from dicyclopentadiene
4.11. Conclusions
References. 5. The structure of an international fragrance company / David H. Pybus
5.1. The business-getting chain
5.2. The supply chain
References
6. The perfume brief / David H. Pybus
6.1. Brief for Eve, prepared by Business Scents Ltd
6.1.1. Background
6.1.2. Product range
6.1.3. General
6.1.4. Fragrance
6.1.5. Timescale
6.1.6. Brief recipients
6.1.7. Price
6.1.8. Production
6.2. Toxicology
7. Perfumer creation : the role of the perfumer / Les Small
7.1. Soap
7.2. Shampoo
7.3. Shower and bath gel
7.4. Antiperspirant
Reference
8. Measurement of fragrance perception / Anne Churchill
8.1. Introduction
8.2. Market research
8.3. Sensory analysis
8.3.1. Threshold
8.3.2. Intensity
8.3.3. Quality
8.3.3.1. Qualitative descriptive analysis
8.3.3.2. Odour profiling
8.3.4. Statistical techniques
8.3.4.1. Multidimensional scaling
8.3.4.2. Principal component analysis
8.4. Multisensory approach
8.5. Psychology of perfume
8.6. The business scents brief
8.6.1. Definition of the appropriate odour area
8.7. Analysis of ingredients to convey the appropriate odour characteristics
8.8. Creating fragrances for the future
References. 9. The application of fragrance / Judi Beerling
9.1. The role of the applications department
9.2. Product formulations
9.2.1. Fine fragrance
9.2.2. Vegetable soap
9.2.3. Aerosol antiperspirant
9.2.4 Shampoo
9.2.5. Shower and bath gel
9.3. Stability testing
9.3.1. Humidity testing
9.3.2. Light testing
9.3.3. Assessment and reporting of results
References
10. The safety and toxicology of fragrances / Steve Meakins
10.1. Introduction
10.2. Self regulation
10.3. Safety assessment
10.4. Skin irritation
10.5. Skin sensitisation
10.6. Photoeffects
10.7. Neurotoxicity
10.8. Reproductive effects
10.9. Natural ingredients
10.10. Conclusions
References
11. Volatility and substantivity / Keith D. Perring
11.1. Perfume creation and physical chemistry
11.2. Perfume ingredient volatility
11.3. Perfume polarity
11.4. Substantivity and retention
11.5. Conclusions
References. 12. Natural product analysis in the fragrance industry / Robin Clery
12.1. Introduction
12.2. Natural product analysis
12.2.1. The traditional approach
12.2.2. The headspace approach
12.3. Analytical techniques used in the fragrance industry
12.3.1. Extraction
12.3.2. Gas-liquid chromatography
12.3.2.1. GC injection systems
12.3.2.2. GC columns
12.3.2.3. GC detectors
12.3.3. Preparative liquid chromatography
12.4. Positive identification
12.5. Headspace collection
12.6. The future
References
13. Chemoreception / Charles Sell
13.1. Why have a sense of smell?
13.2. Measuring smell
13.3. Cell wall structure
13.4. Proteins involved in signal generation
13.5. Anatomy of smell
13.6. Signal generation
13.7. The combinatorial nature of odour perception
13.8. Signal processing
13.9. Implications for odorant design
References. 14. The search for new ingredients / Karen Jenner
14.1. Introduction
14.2. The need
14.3. The search
14.3.1. Clues from nature
14.3.2. Serendipity
14.3.3. Synthesis of analogues
14.4. Computer-aided design
14.4.1. Ligand-olfactory receptor modelling
14.4.2. Structure-activity relationships
14.4.2.1. The Hansch approach
14.4.2.2. Pattern recognition
14.4.2.3. Conformational analysis and the olfactophore approach
14.4.3. Conformational analysis on small data sets
14.5. Summary
Acknowledgements
References
15. Buying fragrance ingredients and selling fragrance compounds / David H. Pybus
15.1. Buying
15.1.1. Categorisation of suppliers and materials
15.1.1.1. Supplier relationships
15.1.1.2. Nature of material
15.1.2. Procurement organisation
15.2. Sales and marketing
16. The finale : brief submission / Les Small
Appendix I. Some of the more important natural fragrance materials
Appendix II. Useful addresses